Want To Learn The Most Common Auto Repair Related Terms?

Because exhaust is an important part of your cars performance, repairs to an exhaust system can be very expensive, costing hundreds or even thousands to replace. This cost is largely made up of parts and labor changes from your garage. The good news is, with a little safety, know-how and some tools, you can purchase the parts yourself and save hundreds over the price of a costly in-shop repair.

An additional system that is occasionally used with diesel engines is an ammonia system. A small tank of ammonia stores the liquid. It is then sprayed as a mist into the system. The ammonia spray bonds with nitrogen gasses and breaks them down into non-toxic, odorless and biodegradable elements. They are then burned away much as particulate are and the rendered exhaust is that much cleaner.

Once you have determined the best choice have an oil change. Many mechanics recommend switching from 10W30 to 5W30 during freezing weather. The lower viscosity of the lubricant allows it to flow more quickly at very low temperatures. In addition to changing the weight you use consider using high quality lubricant if you don’t already. Many companies make a lubricant specific for winter or cold climates and it will reduce damage to the engine when it is started on freezing days.

Shop 3 (This was a local store in that specialized in brakes, tires and exhaust systems. The quote was for $495.00 without them seeing the car. After the work was completed, my cost was $391.59. We have a 12 month / 12,000 mile warranty and this was no hole in the wall, back yard mechanic either! In one hour, repairs were completed.

The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to “wake up” a bit.

EFFICIENCY – There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there is even more energy in water. The DOE has quoted about 40%, 50 it is probably much more than that. Most people are unaware that ‘internal combustion’ is DEFINED as: a thermo-vapor process; as in ‘no liquid in the reaction’; AND most of the gasoline in a standard internal combustion engine, is ACTUALLY CONSUMED cooked and finally broken down) IN THE scrap catalytic converter price guide, which happens AFTER the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this means that most of the fuel we use in this way, is used only to cool down the combustion process, rather than using a cleaner and more efficient means to do so.

Boooooooooooost! Yes, we’re almost at the point where we can turn up the boost. But how do you do it? The answer is a boost controller. There are 2 main types of boost controller, a simple manual controller or a more complex electronic boost controller. The former are cheaper and have a strong following in the DSM community, where the Hallman Boost Controller gets some excellent reviews. I opted for the extra features of the Blitz Dual SBC Spec S boost controller and haven’t looked back. Four different boost settings, a boost warning if it gets too high, and very accurate control of your boost has made it a no-brainer for me. The Spec S is also reasonably priced and is currently holding around 1.6bar of boost on my car without any problems.

We bought these kits and installed them and have also spent some of our time reviewing the available products on the internet. We have found people who have installed them and have had success with these kits and also those who do not.